September 2010
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Salt Spring, the busy metropolis island

Of all the Gulf Islands we’ve been to over the years, Salt Spring Island is the busiest island by far which is funny since by cycling standards some say the most boring, though I’ve not found it to be so yet.

There are three ferry terminals on the island to get on and off from and the last time we were here we sailed to the Long Harbour terminal on the eastern side and left via Fullford on the south.   Riding via Vesuvius Bay on the west this time had the least traffic and the gentlest rise in elevation.  That said it had zero shoulder.

Ferry to Versuvius Bay

We stayed at the Garden Faire Campgrounds which, though had small sites, were well covered by large evergreen trees and other native plants.  I liked the campground and felt secure enough to leave our stuff including my netbook when riding about Ganges (the main town).

Garden Faire Campgrounds

One of the things Beth wanted to do most on Salt Spring was to go to the Saturday market which lived up to it’s name for being a hippie magnet.  It was also one of the most  crowded markets I’ve ever been too.  Following the news, experts are saying that both the US and Canada have turned a corner in the recession and the hustle and bustle  at the Salt Spring Saturday market is good evidence of this good news.

The town of Ganges is a fun place with great restaurants and the only island I’ve been too (outside of Hawaii) that has a night life.  Beth and I ate dinner at the Tree House Café last night which had a guitar jazz duo playing.  Beth and I agreed (an uncommon event) that they were great.

Tree House Café

Denman Island, BC and the heatwave

The last three days have been wickedly hot and probably not a very cleaver idea to be bike touring fully loaded in these conditions. Yet we pedalled Monday in 38c degree heat from Nanaimo to Kooms (just east of Qualicum Beach). At one point after reaching the highway 19 and 19A junction we headed a bit inland on 19 where I began to suffer the effects of heat exhaustion. Feeling very dizzy, weak, and unstable we climbed a hill at a snails pace. Eventually we reached Parksville and stopped in the shade of the information centre where we had a frozen fruit bar and waiting for some time to pass and a cooler evening. Finally we reached the Old Alberni Highway in the cool of the evening and feeling better, arrived at our host’s farm safe yet tired, worn, and frazzled. This was the worst day of the trip so far and the worst I’ve ever experienced heat related illness, something I do not want to relive.

Early wakeup

Tuesday July 28 we packed early to try and beat the expected 39c degree onslaught knowing that we would head east toward the water and hopefully cooler day of riding up to Denman Island. We made the 10 km ride east on highway 4A to Qualicum Beach in a quick 30 min as it was a mostly downhill ride. In Qualicum we stopped in the village shade to eat breakfast when I suddenly saw an older gentleman whom I recognized from our trip to Q-Beach last year. John was on his way to the pool, as he normally does, when he decided to ride through where we were having our snacks. It was a thrill to see him again and we talked for a while before heading off to Milner Gardens before returning to have lunch with him.

Milner Gardens

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Lunch with John was fantastic and we weren’t surprise when he offered to ride with us half way to the Buckley Bay ferry we also weren’t surprised that like last year he lead the way. After ice cream at Qualicum Bay we again were on our own. We hope we see John again soon.

Beth and I arrived at Buckley Bay just after the 7pm ferry left for Denman Island and so waited until the 8:30 but fortunately had a Subway right at the terminal to catch dinner (where we had lunch with John and met his significant other, Stella, last year).

The ferry only takes about 10 min to get to the island but then there’s about a 19% grade hill from the landing into the main town/village. Beth promised me a beer was waiting for me at the top of the hill but the grocery store had closed at 6 and there wasn’t another place to get and cool refreshments until the next day… that is in normal times and normal temperatures.

Denman Island

The next day as record breaking temperatures were still cooking the islands and us we were told that the store’s refrigeration system broke and that they were closing at 1pm. However when we got there at 12:30 they had already been closed for 30 min and so my dream of a cold beer on a hot night was put on hold again but the forecast says that I will have plenty more nights to quench my thirst, by the weekend temp are expected to climb higher.

Summer Tour 2008

Sorry for the belated follow-up to our two week trip to Vancouver Island and the Discovery Islands.  Beth wrote a bit about our couple of days on the road and I will post what she wrote here:

Day 1:  Took the ferry to Sidney, B.C.  (Beth slept the whole way.)  Carl chatted with fellow bikers Adi and Todd, who were doing some ultra-light touring; just a large saddle bag and tent pole bag taped to their top tube.  Upon arriving in Sidney, we headed for our favorite souvlaki place: Maria’s.  There, we met up with our first CouchSurfing.com hostess, Yvette, and began to see what an amazingly cool person she was.

Yvette drove us into Victoria that night for Luminara, a magical community lantern festival.  There were many artistic light displays, sculptures, wandering and performance art of lanterns, and more light.  The main attraction: the fire juggler.  Nick Woolsey of PlayPoi dazzled us with his various choreographed routines, spinning balls of fire in more ways than one can imagine.  Afterward, Yvette herself performed a 36-point turn to get out of a parallel parking space into which she had been sandwiched by an inconsiderate driver.

A video by VegasWildfire (far better than the vids I took of that night)

A blurry Nick Woolsey
Fireflies
Ginger Bread Men running very fast
Glowing Wildlife of British Columbia

Day 2:  Fueled by an amazing breakfast prepared by our hostess with the mostest, we headed onto the Lochside Trail toward Victoria.  It’s a pretty nice way to go: part road, part trail, but always lots of cyclists.  We saw a billboard for Obama, which we thought was interesting, since we were in Canada.  Note that there was almost no place to pee on this stretch as the highway was on one side and expensive housed on the other..  The first park we stopped at had restrooms that were locked.  Finally we found one that had port-a-potties.  Whew!

Once in Victoria, we turned onto the Galloping Goose Trail.  At the juncture, there is a cool little bike shop, which I’m hoping Carl will say something about here.  The Galloping Goose took us to our destination: Hatley Castle.  We had wanted to tour this castle a year and a half ago, when we were there on New Year’s Day.  Alas, it was completely closed at that time, so we were making another try.  This time we got in on a tour and visited the elaborate gardens.  Score!  On the way there, Carl reached out while cycling to grab a flower for Beth.  Unfortunately, he got stung by a bee in the process, which at least  enhanced the romance of the gesture.

Riding the Lockside Regional Trail

Hatley Castle is the home of Royal Roads University, and it has a fabulous café.  As we stood pondering the menu, we wondered where the “high carb” options were, as there seemed to be plenty of “low carb” offerings, which were not what we needed after all that cycling.  Hatley Castle is also where the X-Men movies were filmed.

Wanting to maximize our time at Hatley Castle, and also not wanting to wear ourselves ragged on the first day, arriving back at Yvette’s in the dark, etc., we decided to take the bus back to Sidney.  Unfortunately, the bike racks on the buses have only two slots for bikes, and it was a beautiful Sunday, so there was a lot of competition for rack space.  We finally found a bus driver who offered to lash one bike in between the two that were fitted into the slots.  Success!  Still it was dark by the time we got back to Sidney.  Beth started to get a sore throat this day, so we picked up zinc lozenges and echinasea.  Back at Yvette’s, we gobbled up the amazing dinner she had prepared (candied salmon salad with dried cranberries–AMAZING), and then we soaked in the hot tub a bit before falling very fast asleep in the comfy sofa bed.

Riding the Lockside trail to the Galloping Goose

Finally getting around to writing about our BIG TOUR!

These videos are of day two of our summer 2008 tour from Sidney to Campbell River and the Discovery Islands.

After a great first night staying with Yvette our CouchSurfing host, we spent the day riding from Sidney past Victoria to Hatley Castle starting on the Lockside trail in Sidney and connecting to the Galloping Goose.  It was our second trip to the castle which was also used as the school in the X-Men movie.

PS: Please disregard my dumb out of context conversations as they seemed funny at the time but now seem so incredibly dumb.

Traveling over the Blenkinsop Lake Trestle